A day in Ayodhya

Ayodhya, the birthplace of Lord Rama, is a place steeped in history and spirituality. However, our recent visit there was a mixed bag of emotions – exhilarating yet overwhelming, humbling yet disheartening.

The highlight of the trip, undoubtedly, was witnessing the Ram Mandir aarti. We opted for the wise decision of obtaining an aarti pass (currently offered at 4 am and 6 am which must be booked two weeks prior to the date of visit). While this ensured a spot within the temple, the journey inside was far from peaceful. The sheer volume of devotees, coupled with a sense of urgency, translated into pushing, shoving, and a general lack of respect for personal space. It was a stark contrast to the spiritual experience I expected.

The infrastructure surrounding the temple also left room for improvement. The new temple stood in stark contrast to the poverty evident in the surrounding areas. Additionally, the chaotic nature of tourist activity felt disrespectful to the sanctity of the place.

Leaving the Ram Mandir with a sigh, we paid a quick visit at Hanuman Giri, only minutes by walk. 

Our next stop, Kanak Bhawan, was a breath of fresh air. This historic palace, with its beautiful courtyard, provided a much-needed escape from the chaos outside. Remember to check the opening timings before you visit!

The saving grace of the trip came in the form of a small tea stall – Kalam ki Chai. Here's where we finally found a cup of chai brewed to perfection – strong, fragrant, and generously laced with ginger. But what truly stole our hearts was the young owner, Kalam. His passion for chai was evident in every sip, and his kindness knew no bounds. He freely offered cups of tea and biscuits to the less fortunate, a gesture that restored our faith in humanity.

Ayodhya has the potential to be a truly awe-inspiring experience. With improved crowd management, better infrastructure, and a more respectful tourist culture, it could truly become a pilgrimage site worthy of its spiritual significance. Until then, a cup of kindness from Kalam will remain a heartwarming memory from this trip.

Day 3 in Banaras: From Spicy Mornings to Sacred Sites

Today we checked out of our beautiful hotel.

Day three in Varanasi started, as all good days should, with a hearty breakfast at Ram Bhandar. There’s something undeniably comforting about the crisp kachori and the syrupy sweetness of jalebi. To wash it all down, we embarked on a chai hunt. 

Our quest led us to Lakshmi Chai Wala, a place that had been recommended to us. While the chai wasn’t exactly mind-blowing, the sandwiches were a quirky surprise. 

Who knew a Cesarean sandwich existed? The world is full of wonders, I guess.

Our guide had arranged a cab for us to tour on this day as it involved a trip to Sarnath, an hour away from Varanasi. 

On our way we stopped at Tulsi Ghat, a ghat with a serene ambiance, far removed from the bustling crowds of Dashashwamedh. It's named after Tulsi Das, the famous poet who wrote the Ramcharitmanas. The ghat has a peaceful vibe, perfect for a quiet moment of reflection.

Our next stop was the Banaras Hindu University. The campus was a sprawling green oasis in the heart of the city. It felt like stepping into another world. The architecture was impressive, and the overall atmosphere was calm and academic.

Sarnath: A Peaceful Escape from the Varanasi Hustle

The highlight of the day was undoubtedly Sarnath. The moment we stepped into the archaeological site, it felt like we were transported to another era. The Dhamekh Stupa, with its imposing presence, is a sight to behold. I couldn't help but imagine the thousands of people who must have gathered here centuries ago to listen to Buddha's teachings.

The Sarnath Museum was a treasure trove of artifacts. From intricate sculptures to ancient coins, it offered a fascinating glimpse into the past. The highlight for us was the Ashoka Pillar, a majestic remnant of the Mauryan Empire.

To end our day on a delicious note, we indulged in a hearty lunch at Baati Chokha. The smoky flavor of the baati and the spicy goodness of the chokha were the perfect way to cap off our Sarnath adventure. Highly recommend it!

With this, our Varanasi adventure came to an end. It was a whirlwind of experiences – from the chaotic energy of the ghats to the spiritual tranquility of the temples. Varanasi, you've left an indelible mark on my heart. Until next time!

Day 2 in Banaras: A Day of Chaos, Culture, and Crazy Cravings

Varanasi, or Banaras as it's lovingly called, is a city that demands you surrender to its rhythm. We decided to take a laid-back approach, and boy, am I glad we did!

A Lazy Start and a Breakfast Fit for a King

We woke up to the gentle cacophony of the city – horns honking, chants echoing, and the holy Ganges murmuring its ancient lullaby. After a leisurely start, we ventured out to the legendary Ram Bhandar. Navigating the narrow lanes in an e-rickshaw was an adventure in itself!

The e-rickshaws only go so far because of random road closures, so we ended up complting the last leg our our trip in a cycle rickshaw.

The kachori and jalebi were everything the hype promised and more. Apparently, this is a classic Varanasi breakfast, and I can totally see why!

Goodbye Ram Bhandar, but see you soon ;)

Temples, Lines, and a Dash of Spirituality

We met up with our guide (who was amazing by the way!). Next up was the infamous Kal Bhairav Temple. The queue was a testament to its popularity, and after a grueling hour and a half, we finally got a glimpse of the deity. It was a whirlwind experience, to say the least!

A quick cycle rickshaw ride later, we found ourselves at the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. The 300 rupee pass was a lifesaver, cutting down the wait time considerably. The security checks were intense, but I guess that's the price you pay for visiting such a holy place. The temple itself was a riot of colors, sounds, and fervent devotion. We managed to squeeze in a quick visit to the Annapurneshwari Temple as well.

Food, Glorious Food

By this time, our stomachs were protesting loudly. A trip to the famous Blue Lassi was in order. The lassi was thick, creamy, and oh-so-refreshing. It was almost like a meal in itself!

To burn off some calories, we walked up to Manikarnika Ghat. The sight was both fascinating and sobering. 

The Ganga Dwar was a beautiful contrast to the stark reality of life and death that played out on the ghat.

Our religious expedition ended with a quick darshan at the Kashi Visalakshi Temple. Shorter queses were all we needed at this point, and we got so lucky. 

And yes, you guessed it, hunger struck again. We found refuge in the air-conditioned comfort of Dolphin Restaurant. The food was decent, but the AC was the real star of the show ;)

Unexpected Discoveries

A walk to the Man Singh Observatory was a pleasant surprise. The intricate astronomical instruments were mind-boggling. I may not have understood the science behind them, but the sheer beauty was undeniable.

The view of the ghats from the terrace is not to be missed!

On our way back, we decided to try the infamous Banarasi paan. Big mistake. Our taste buds were not prepared for that level of intensity! We decided to stick to the milder Gujarati Shingoda paan from then on.

Varanasi is a city that keeps you on your toes. It's a whirlwind of sensory experiences, from the chaos of the streets to the serenity of the temples. It's a place where you'll laugh, cry, eat, pray, and wonder all at once. And we wouldn't have it any other way. The city certainly grows on you.

A Chatty and Shopping Evening in Varanasi

There's something undeniably magical about exploring a city after the scorching heat subsides. Varanasi, with its enchanting charm, is no exception. As the sun began its descent (and most folks were probably gathered to watch the Ganga Aarti), we found ourselves drawn to the vibrant energy of its bustling streets.

Our first stop was Kashi Chat Bhandar. The moment we stepped in, we were greeted by a tantalizing aroma of spices and fried goodness. 

We wanted to eat everything....couldn't resist trying the tamatar chat, mixed chat, and aloo tikki chat. Each bite was a burst of flavor, a perfect blend of tangy, sweet, and spicy. If you're a chat lover, this place is an absolute must-visit!

With our taste buds satisfied, we ventured into the world of shopping. Varanasi is renowned for its exquisite Banarasi silk. We spent the rest of the evening exploring the labyrinthine lanes, our eyes feasting on the vibrant colors and intricate designs. However, a word of caution: bargaining is an absolute must! The initial prices can be quite steep, so don't be afraid to haggle.

The evening of day 2 ended with a sense of fulfillment and our tummy happies with potential treasures. Varanasi, with its unique blend of flavors and cultural richness, had once again cast its spell.

Day 1 in Banaras : Witnessing the Enchantment of Ganga Aarti

 

We landed in Banaras around 3pm on a hot summer afternoon. After a 30 min taxi ride to our hotel, we were welcomed with fresh litchi juice (yum)!

We stayed in this beautiful haveli-converted-into-a- hotel - Amitara Suryauday Haveli.

Our agenda for the evening was to witness the Ganga Aarti and enjoy local cuisine. Banaras, also known as Varanasi, is a city steeped in history and spiritual significance. One of the most mesmerizing experiences for any visitor is witnessing the Ganga Aarti, a daily evening ritual of worshipping the holy River Ganges.

Our hotel arranged a boat ride to the Dashashwamedh Ghat (riverfront steps). We left around 5:15 pm and docked our boat around 5:40 pm. 

There is a lot of waiting on the boat (in the heat!), so be prepared with water and a hand fan! We also enjoyed some delicious lemon spiced tea while waiting. 

Little Shiva!

The Aarti is a multi-sensory experience. A group of priests, attired in saffron robes, perform the puja (prayer) using large, tiered brass lamps filled with burning oil. The rhythmic chanting of mantras fills the air, accompanied by the clanging of cymbals and the blowing of conch shells.

 

The highlight of the Aarti is the offering of light. The priests, in a synchronized movement, gracefully sway the lamps, creating a mesmerizing dance of fire. Devotees on the ghats, and sometimes on boats in the river, follow suit, offering their own small diyas (clay lamps) afloat on the water (unfortunately we also witnessed a lot of trash).

The Ganga Aarti is more than just a religious ceremony; it's a cultural experience that embodies the essence of Banaras. It's a testament to the deep reverence Hindus hold for the River Ganges, considered a life source and a pathway to spiritual liberation.

Plan Your Visit

The Ganga Aarti is a free event, and witnessing it is a must-do for anyone visiting Banaras. Here are some tips for planning your visit:

• Timings: The Aarti starts around sunset, which varies depending on the season. In summer, it might be around 7 pm, while in winter, it could be as early as 6 pm.
• Location: The most popular spot is Dashashwamedh Ghat - be prepared for crowds and the heat in summer! 
• Seating: Arrive early to secure a good spot on the ghats especially if you opt for a boat ride on the river for a unique perspective.

We returned to our hotel around 8:30 pm and were greeted with live Hindustani music in the restaurant courtyard! 

Given the beautiful ambience we decided to dine in the in-house restaurant. We were pleasantly surprised with the quality and flavors of the dishes. By far the best lassi and aloo dum to calm our highly stimulated minds! 

Day1 in Baranas did not disappoint!